Salaam Alaikum (Peace be upon you)

I tightened the hijab around my head as the Uber wove its way deeper and deeper into the tight and narrow alleyways of central Cairo. It was 4:30 p.m., and the air was stagnant with car fumes and liminal light. Yet, Cairo, known as the city of a thousand mosques, was in full bloom. Men, women and children milled around the courtyards, waiting for the Maghrib to be sung from the tall stone minarets, calling the end of the day and the time for...